Some Common Reasons For Frozen Pipes
Pipes are usually more likely to freeze when the outdoor temperature is below the "teens" and "twenties" for more than several weeks.
Typical locations for frozen pipes: unheated basement/crawl space where the interior water pipes are located, uninsulated pipes running against cold outside walls, open or broken windows near pipes, under sink cabinents, openings or cracks that allow cold air to affect the water pipes, unoccupied in infrequently lived in homes where the heat may not be working or set high enough, shallow water lines in the ground, creek crossings, outdoor buildings.
How will you know if the pipes are frozen?
Generally, when a pipe that supplies a fixture such as shower, sink or toilet freezes, you will not be able to get water from that fixture.
Why do frozen water pipes break?
When water freezes within a pipe, the volume of water expands. The same amount of water takes up more space as a solid than as a liquid. This causes the pipes to expand and possibly break at a weak point. You may notice this immediately, or it may NOT become apparent until the pipe begins to thaw, with the break occurring only when full water pressure is restored. This also applies to your service line that runs between the water meter and your residence. The water service lines can freeze when the ground frost gets deep enough to encase your service line in ice. However, this generally happens only when your service line is less than 40" below the surface of the ground, or your service line passes through a stream that washes out your service line.
Service Line
Your service line runs from the water meter to your water use location, it is generally a 3/4" plastic line. If it is anything other than plastic- you should replace the entire water line. You are responsible for the installation, maintenance and replacement of the line. Please do not call CBPSD for the location of your line- we do not have records for locations of those lines- typically it is the shortest and most direct route from your water meter. The line cannot serve another residence and/or business "1 customer per water meter".
Shut-Off Valves
You should have a least one shut-off valve in your service line (two are recommended). The first valve should be near the water meter and is often referred to as a "curb-stop." This shut off should be located in a protected metal/plastic box with a lid and not just buried in the ground- which makes it hard to quickly get to and turn off - especially in frozen ground. This shut off valve allows you to isolate the service line between the meter and the home. Customers are not suppose to turn the water off at the valve attached to the water meter- this belongs to CBPSD and getting into the meter pit/well is considered tampering- customers will be charged for any and all damages to equipment/materials. The other valve should be located near where the water line connects to plumbing for the location- again it helps isolate area. Other valves may be near plumbing appliances such as sinks and toilets.
How should I maintain the main shut-off valve?
Keeping the main shut-off valve in good working condition will help to ensure that you are able to turn your water off if one of your pipes or lines break or in the event of another emergency. Give the valve a turn occasionally to prevent possible corrosion build-up (if the valve is already stiff from corrosion, a little WD-40 will help to dissolve the build-up). Don't forget to turn the valve back to the position it was in originally when you are finished. Some customers also locate their PRV (pressure reducing valve- aka pressure regulator) in the same pit near the metering point or on the interior wall where the water enters the location.
What if my main shut-off valve won't work in an emergency?
Give us a call at 304-292-4003 and a CBPSD service department member will come out to turn off at the meter for you- but please keep in mind that our staff is small and may already be working on a system emergency/project. If it is after office hours, weekends, or holidays-please listen to the voice prompt for your call to be fowarded directly to the service department staff member on call. There will be a required charge for the service department to come back and turn water on after your repairs are made - reminder you are not suppose to get in the meter pit to turn on/off the meter.
What should I do if my pipes freeze and Can I try thawing them myself?
Your best course of action is to call a profession plumber. If trying to thaw yourself, you will need to be very careful! Some improper thawing methods could cause the pipes to burst; other methods can injure or even kill you.
Use a heat gun or a hair dryer to thaw the pipe, but set the controls on low. Be extremely careful, as heat from a heat gun (or even a blow dryer) may ignite if nearby wood or paper.
Rub the pipe with warm, damp rags to slowly thaw the line. Keep the faucet open while thawing the pipe. As the frozen area begins to melt, water begins to flow. This will help melt more ice in the pipe. Also check other faucets in the house to find out if you have any addtional frozen pipes. If one pipe freezes- often other locations may also be frozen.
Do NOT try to thaw a frozen pipe with a blowtorch. There's a good chance that you will cause the water to boil within the pipe, resulting in an explosion when the pipe bursts. Also, a blow torch will release poisonous gasses into the air.
How Can You Prevent Pipes From Freezing
Keep pipes on exterior/outside wall exposed to heat from nearby rooms.
Allow warm air to circulate around pipes. Open bathroom and kitchen cabinet doors to allow warmer air to circulate around the plumbing.
Insulate your pipes. You can buy products made specifically to insulate water pipes, such as pipe sleeves, heat tape, heat cables or other similar products. Make sure to follow manufacturer's instructions for installing and using the products. Both hot and cold water pipes should be insulated- both can freeze if water is not running throughthe pipe.
Culk and seal any openings in outside walls near your water pipes.
Remove, drain and store any hoses used outdoors. Close the inside valves that supply outdoor faucets and open those faucets so the water can drain out; and leave it open so any water remaining in the pipe can expand without causing the pipe to break. Remember to turn the valve off when preparing to use the next spring.
Keep the thermostat set to the same temperature both day and night. Don't set the temperature below 60 when you go out.
If necessary, keep some tap water running. Not a lot is needed, just a trickle. Moving water doesn't freeze as readily as still water. This method will result in an increased water bill.
If no one will be home for an extended period of time during extreme weather (such as going south for winter), you might consider turning your main valve off and draining your system; including all water pipes and fixtures- bascially winterizing your water system. You will still get a monthly water bill even if you turn off your valve- the only way to prevent the monthly bill is to complete a request for disconnection form found on this website- we will take a final reading and lock out the water meter. You will be required to pay any current billing and when you return for the season- pay a reconnection fee prior to having the service restored. If you elect this option, please provide us more than 2 business days notice. Please see the tariff page for the current reconnection charge. No there is not a "vacation/away from home" setting/charge for the water meter. The charge is the base charge plus any water that passes through the meter.
Many customers' have received and must pay very high water bills while the house/business/church was vacant - especially during the winter when not only can pipes burst because of freezing/failure of fixtures, pipe burst, electric and/or gas off and house loses heat.
Please take necessary actions to help prevent this from happening to you.
Please see other frequently asked questions (FAQ) listed under the resources tab.
